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Thursday, June 28, 2018

Reducing the Aggressiveness of Adjustable DE Razors

[UPDATE: If this article is relevant to your interests, be sure to read the comments section at the very bottom. Some additional, useful information is provided there in a short comment conversation between an informed reader and the author.]

I am on record saying several things about the Parker Variant adjustable razor:

  • Its shaving geometry makes for a non-irritating shave.
  • It may be the best affordable adjustable razor design on the market.
  • It adjusts to settings sufficiently aggressive to satisfy most users who prefer (or for some reasons need) a very aggressive razor.
  • Its adjustment range is adequate to meet the needs of most (but not all) users.
  • Like every adjustable DE of which I'm aware, it doesn't adjust to a mild enough setting for users who prefer or need very mild razors  -- like me.

Long ago, I stopped using my Variant for the first four to six shaves with most new blades. Instead I used milder razors that were less likely to nip my wound-prone skin, which is NOT in and of itself baby smooth. Though you can't tell by looking, my skin is rather micro rough, which leaves it prone to nicks/weepers whenever I shave certain areas to my desired level of closeness.

I found a simple solution to the not-mild-enough problem with the Parker Variant (and likely other adjustables such as the Merkur Progress as well as the Merkur Futur and other razors based on the Futur design -- even the Gillette adjustables!).

The solution is to elevate the shave plane slightly, thus lowering the blade edge in relation to the shave plane. This is done easily and inexpensively (and without risking any harm to the razor) with a few strips of electrical tape.

With a couple of strips of electrical tape, the shave plane of the razor can be tweaked to shave just a bit milder.


What the added tape does is make the top cap just a tad thicker near the blade. This raises the top cap's contact point with the skin. This raised contact point tips the shave plane slightly more away from the blade edge, which makes the blade exposure slightly negative -- meaning that the edge is now slightly below the shave plane, rather that directly on it.

Without the tape on the top cap and the razor at its mildest setting, the blade exposure is fairly neutral, with the edge pretty much at the shave plane. This can be too aggressive for a minority of users.

With just a single layer of electrical tape and the razor set to its mildest setting, the shave plane rises enough that the edge is now clearly underneath it. This is a negative-blade-exposure configuration, and makes the razor much safer, more user friendly for those with easily-nicked skin.

Happy shaving!


Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Hump Day Revelations

Grandad's Shave Soap


I have a fairly large batch of Grandad's Shave Soap, my personal recipe for an all-natural, plant-based, unscented shave soap for those who may be sensitive to fragrance and other additives.

At one time I did offer samples for a modest price, and though a few took me up on the sample offer -- and even a few wanted to order a puck, it was a commercial failure.

Yet recently I've been shaving with Grandad's Soap, and I find it to be an excellent option. It makes rich lather that lubricates well.

The reasons for it's commercial failure include the following:
  • No fragrance
  • Samples were too small and awkwardly packaged
  • Normal-sized quantities were not made available (and probably would have been priced too low!)
Ah well, live and learn. 

Gillette Slim


I had to change razors in the middle of this morning's shave. After with-grain and then cross-grain passes (and using a light touch, with the razor on its mildest setting), I removed the blade from my Gillette Slim and put it into my Parker Variant, which was also set on its mildest adjustment.

Making my final pass against grain with the Variant was a much more comfortable experience. It has motivated me to remove the Slim once again from my small selection of at-hand razors.

I'm done with the Slim. If it works for you, more power to you. It's just not my cup of tea.

Happy shaving!