Observations on Straight Technique

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Straight-Technique Talk

I'm no expert on using a disposable-blade barbers' straight razor (a.k.a. shavette), but here are a few things I've learned:

By the way, this barber's grip is about what I use: three fingers
on the blade side of the scales, just the pinky on the tang.

• When initially applying razor to one's face to begin a stroke or stroke sequence, wherever possible apply the blade flat against the skin. Then once on the skin, tip the spine of the blade up and away from the skin to find your shaving angle. This avoids a hard landing with edge against skin causing damage.
• I think I know why pros use reciprocating cuts (similar to buffing -- NOT SAWING!) as they shave a (large or small) facet of the beard. It's actually the same reason I tend to use reciprocating strokes with my DE razors: the return (non-cutting) stroke tends to spread moisture and soap back for the next forward (shaving) stroke. When I don't do this with my shavette, my blade tends to stick a bit as I try to shave -- even when mid-shave I've applied new, damp lather to a given area.
• Keep the angle between blade and skin very small. This allows a slicing cut of the whisker while minimizing the chances that one makes a slicing cut of the skin. While following this advice I've been able to make a first pass on my lower neck largely against the grain without any damage or irritation to the skin whatsoever. 
• All the advice about stretching the skin is right on target. The stretch doesn't have to be extreme, however. Just don't let the skin surface become loose; keep it tight and firm.

This Morning's Shave

I took a first pass with the Parker SRX straight, and then cleaned things up with a full second pass using my Parker Variant. These are a fun 1-2 combination that offers both challenge and a good shave.

The Parker SRX barber's razor.

My first pass (with the SRX) was with the grain on my cheeks, under jaw, upper neck and upper lip. I went across the grain (or nearly so) on my lower lip, and fully cross grain on my chin. On my lower neck I went pretty much against the grain though not perfectly so. This was a fourth shave on a half-Derby-Extra blade, which was on its last legs and went into the recycle can after the shave.

The Parker Variant adjustable DE razor.

The second (final) pass (with the Variant and a sixth-use Shark blade) was pretty much against the grain except on my upper lip, which was cross grain. I used a low setting of about 2-1/2 on the Variant, which was quite adequate to finish what was a comfortable and completely-close-enough shave.

Happy shaving!