I'm Back!

I've been away from the blog for a while. And I've re-filled my well of ideas. 

I have some things to share about shaving as well as some other topics that might be of interest. However, these things can be seen at my new blog site:

https://shavingguitarstennis.blogspot.com/

Hope to see you there. I'll be writing my first post in just a few minutes.

Happy shaving (and stuff)!

Shaving in the Time of Covid-19

Recovery from Covid

In the last half of March, I had flu-like symptoms for two weeks: a body temperature fluctuating between about 98 F and 100.5 F, body aches, a slight tightness when breathing deeply - which triggered a slight cough.

I suspected that I had Covid, and would have liked to have been tested. After all, Trump was on TV at that time repeatedly saying anyone who needed to be tested could get tested. But despite my wife being an emergency physician, I couldn't get a test. Trump was lying as usual, but if you get your news from Fox News, you probably don't know that.

I finally had my exposure to Covid confirmed, when in the first week in May, went to a local physician who was making his office available to draw blood and submit for antibody testing. I was positive, meaning my body had been exposed and developed antibodies to the virus.

I am 66 years old. Why did I not get sicker needing hospitalization and flirting with death? The following are all potential reasons:

• I am generally healthy with no chronic illnesses, and taking no prescription medicaitons.
• I am of a healthy body weight, with a body-mass index of around 21.
• I eat a whole-food, plant-based, low-fat/oil diet, which discourages internal inflammation.
• I daily consume spices such as turmeric, which also contribute to low internal inflammation.
• I do not eat any animal foods: no meat, poultry, fish, dairy or eggs. All these foods increase risk for 14 of the 15 leading causes of death. (I am a registered dietitian-nutritionist, so I know such things.)
• I get sufficient sleep.
• I get regular, vigorous exercise.
• While I was sick, it was more comfortable to breathe shallowly so as not to trigger a cough. But instead I did the opposite: breathed deeply, held my breath both with lungs full and with lungs empty. 

Why Do So Many People Not Recognize Propaganda News Networks?

Fox News cable network, like Russia Today cable network or Al Jazeera network, is a propaganda station. It is so obvious when one both watches the messages from the White House and takes in news from other outlets.

If you doubt this, if you trust Fox and think all the others have a "liberal agenda," I have a question for you: Is it more likely that Fox News is the only major American news outlet telling the whole truth while ABC, NBC, CBS, PBS, NPR, USA Today, The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Washington Post, and many others are all conspiring to make the Trump administration look incompetent, corrupt, serving the needs of wealthiest Americans at the expense of the majority, sucking up to authoritarian world leaders, and generally sowing chaos everywhere; or, perhaps, is Fox News alone spreading propaganda trying to put a positive spin on all things from 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. and serve an agenda created by and for the super wealthy? The second option is the only logical, reasonable answer. If you believe in a vast liberal news conspiracy, you're not getting all the facts or you're not objective (or both).

DE Shaving is Environmentally Friendly, but it's Not Enough

I respect and admire the work of Greta Thunberg, the Scandanavian teenager who is campaigning against climate change. She is right... to a point.

However, to understand my hesitation to fully endorse her message, it would be helpful to watch a free movie, Planet of the Humans, which is available in its entirety for free on YouTube.

We aren't going to escape climate change through technology, or electric cars, or even going to a completely plant-based diet (because 51% of world-wide contribution toward global warming comes from the raising of animals for human food). Nope, not even if we fully exploit all those options together.

No. It's a question of human population. There are too many mouths to feed, generating too much waste, using too many resources. There is little room for nature outside of the activities of humans. 

The Covid-19 virus isn't the biggest threat to the planet. It is us, humans. We are like the yeast in a bottle of wine: we are consuming all available resources and will eventually perish in our own waste.

We are a virus infecting and severely sickening planet Earth.

So I have some suggestions -- consider them food for thought:

• Use a DE or straight razor, and don't throw away used blades. Instead, recycle them.
• And use your blades fully. Enough with the one and done. Fully use all resources; don't waste.
• Be more conscious of your use of the car. Minimize your driving.
• When you next acquire a replacement vehicle, consider carefully getting the most fuel efficient version. And be thoughtful: most people don't need a freaking SUV, which gets half the fuel economy of a sensible sedan or hatchback.
• Use less water.
• As much as you can, stop eating animals and animal products.
• Stop having children. Adopt if you can, but don't make more -- or, at least, make fewer.
• In everything you do, consider the long-term consequences if everyone makes poor choices. Be the change you want to see in the world.

Annoyed? Are my suggestions too  radical for you? Don't believe that following generations will have to deal with existential challenges like none ever before seen?

I have some suggestions on that topic too:

• Stop watching Fox News; it is poison for clear-headed, responsible decision making. (Garbage in, garbage out.)
• Watch Planet of the Humans
• Watch Cowspiracy
• Watch What the Health
• Watch Forks Over Knives
• Watch The Game Changers

That's it for now. Be well. Be responsible. Be smart. Be informed.

Love or Hate Your Shave Soap Fragrance?

I don't like most shave soap fragrances: too flowery, too girly, too strong, too much like Grandma's potpourri.

What to do? Discard? Suffer the olfactory insult?

No! There is a better solution, and it lies in the fact that most fragrances are volatile. They won't explode, but they will dissipate over time if left in the open air.

A great example of a good and inexpensive shave soap is Arko, which is often disliked because of its overpowering fragrance.

The solution is simple. Unwrap it, and leave it exposed to circulating air. Over days the fragrance will start to diminish. Over weeks it becomes mild and pleasant.

I am doing this with a large tub of shave soap that I won as a door prize in a shaving meet up. I hated the fragrance, but the lather was good. So this morning I opened the container and left it to air on my bathroom counter.

Not surprisingly, my bathroom soon acquired the subtle scent of this shave soap. That's an indication that the fragrance is leaving the soap and going into the air. Over time, the soap will have a weak enough fragrance that it's unlikely to bother me.

The reverse is true of a soap with a smell that you like. My sad story is that I ordered a menthol soap that I like a lot, but which is no longer available. I put the puck of soap in an open yogurt container, where it has been for many months. I went to use it the other day, and there was little menthol to be felt or smelled.

Oops, I should have put that puck in a sealed container to preserve the fragrance and feeling. But I didn't think about it at the time.

Don't make my mistakes. Air out the soaps with strong or offensive fragrance. Seal the soaps you like to preserve the fragrance.

Happy shaving!

A Premium Shave Experience for Pennies!

I recently had a rare experience in which I was super-pleasantly surprised by trying a shave product that I had largely dismissed before really giving it a fair trial. Here's my brief story:

For a few days I was trying a shave soap sample with a pleasant vanilla scent. The lather I was able to produce was adequate, but just a bit flat. Then I remembered that I had some lather-booster soap from Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements (PAA)*.

This is the version of lather booster that I've been using -- containing menthol.

So for my next shave I swirled my warm, wet shave brush on the puck of lather booster, then into the vanilla shave soap and gave it a go.

The result was a luxurious lather unlike any I've experienced with brush and soap! It reminded me very much of all the good things about lather from a can -- its body and richness -- but, of course, without the propellants and without the need to spread the lather with my hands. (Also without the wasteful, non recyclable, ecologically irresponsible can!)

So after a couple of days of lather-boosted vanilla soap, I pulled out the Toyota Yaris of shave soaps (economical but hardly the lap of luxury), Williams.

Same story (yeah!!!): a rich lather, super premium!

I, personally, also like my particular version of lather booster because it's mentholated; I love the cool anesthetizing effect of menthol. However, PAA also offers other varieties for your shaving delight, which are pictured below:

A mentholated prickly-pear version of PAA's lather booster.

This is the same lather booster that I use, but in a soap stick instead of a puck.

A scent-free lather booster.

These soaps are very affordable and turn any run-of-the-mill, economy shave soap into a Rolls-Royce experience. My suggestion is to skip paying top dollar for expensive shave soaps and instead choose any "value" soap and add a little lather booster. The outcome will likely surpass the lather from any so-called premium (and very expensive) shave soap.

And frankly, adding lather booster to even your top-dollar soaps is likely to improve the experience.

To easily peruse these lather boosters on the PAA web site, choose any of the links in this article and search on "lather booster."

Happy shaving!

*Shave Like Grandad is an affiliate partner with PAA.

From the Mailbag: Weishi-adjustable Settings?

A reader asked a question regarding my use of the Weishi Adjustable DE:

Doug, I finally moved up from a setting of 4 to 5. What settings do you find yourself using the most?

These days, I generally do a variation on a three-pass shave using different razor settings for each pass.

The first pass is generally done with downward strokes irrespective of beard grain. Depending on the brand of blade and its point in its overall life cycle, I generally set the razor somewhere in the 2 to 3 range.

In the second pass, I pay more attention to beard grain, and generally shave against it. For this pass I typically increment the razor up a notch, so it would be set in the 3 to 4 range. I will usually employ simple as well as more complex razor strokes including J-hooking and skewed (where the blade edge is not perpendicular to the stroke direction) techniques.

For my final full pass, I again increment the razor one unit more aggressive, and again shave against the grain. Like the second pass, I will use varied stroking technique combined with the slightly more aggressive razor setting to try to "sneak up" on a very close shave, without crossing the line, getting too aggressive, and thereby injuring my delicate dermis.

I will also usually add some water to my face after the third pass and take some clean-up strokes -- usually without further changing the razor setting, but this may vary depending on the factors and quality of the shave to this point.

Thanks for asking, and happy shaving!

The Joy of the Perfect Razor (for One's Face)

The affordable Weishi adjustable razor is providing benefits beyond merely getting a close, comfortable daily shave. Before I elaborate on those additional benefits, let me tell you why this razor provides them:

• It adjusts to be mild enough that I can use the sharpest of blades, without that razor-blade combination being too aggressive and thereby injuring or irritating my skin.
• It adjusts to be aggressive enough that I can use a blade at the end of its life cycle and can still get a close, comfortable shave.

These bulletted features above have also provided an unexpected and welcome additional benefit: because over the course of a shave I can dial in the shave character very precisely -- not too mild and not to aggressive -- and because I use this razor daily (all others being relegated to a bedroom closet), I have been getting a real sense for the different shave characters of various blades.

Never before have I gotten such a clear impression of how the various grinds and coatings on different brands (and models) of razor blades feel on my skin. This is because the adjustability of the razor tends to limit (or, essentially, eliminate) the variables that can confound a true understanding of a blade's impact on the shave.

Another unforeseen benefit comes from the ability to dial in the closeness of the shave with precision. The process to accomplish this is to first consider the blade. Is it new and a very sharp brand, or less so due to its manufacture or position in its life cycle? Then set the razor for the first pass according to those blade conditions. Then dial up slightly (as appropriate) the aggression of the razor for the second pass. Likewise for the third and clean-up passes.

By "sneaking up" on a close shave using the razor's ability for both mild early passes and more aggressive finishing passes, optimal shaves occur with great regularity and consistency. This allows the impact of the blade to be more easily evaluated.

For me, the Weishi adjustable razor is pretty much the perfect razor for my face. And it's a joy for me to use.

Happy shaving!

Weishi Adjustable Simplifies Razor Choices

I don't collect double-edge (DE) razors. Although I'm sorry to say that you might not know that given the large number of DEs that I actually still own -- and that is despite my months ago passing along to others many DEs that were not optimal for my beard and face.

But now all of my remaining DEs have been banished to a box up in a bedroom closet. All of them except one, of course.

This is because my latest razor acquisition, the new, jet black Weishi adjustable is the one-size-fits-all-blades razor that is the best of the bunch for my face. It adjusts mild enough to give me a comfortable shave with the sharpest of blades. It adjusts aggressive enough to provide a close shave with a nearly-worn-out blade. It shaves smoothly enough that I don't complain about the uncomfortable shaves of virtually all the other one-piece (butterfly-opening) DEs that I've used over the years -- including the very mild non-adjustable Weishi 9306 model.

I appreciate simplicity. Why have ten DEs or even two, when one is the best of the bunch and meets all my face shaving needs?

Even my smooth-shaving Parker Variant is packed up in that bedroom closet. That's because it just doesn't dial down mild enough for me when I'm using virtually any sharp, new blade. Even shimming the Variant -- previously my best DE option -- has been something of a compromise because it still leaves a relatively long top-cap-to-safety-bar span, which makes it easy to nick skin on the sharp contours of my chin or at the jaw line. For me, unmodified, the Variant was a risky razor -- likely to draw a little blood -- with virtually any new blade even at its mildest setting. It was only after my blade had mellowed after several shaves that the Variant, without modification, would be a welcome DE choice for my daily shave.

Simplicity is the watch word -- simplicity driven by function. As someone said long ago on a different subject: "why choose hamburger when you can have steak?" And for my face the new Weishi adjustable is steak at a hamburger price. No shimming necessary. Sufficiently adjustable for any blade to give a good shave.

Simplicity is a good thing to enjoy. 

Happy shaving! (I am.)

Modifying Alcohol-Based After-Shave Lotions

I have several bottles of alcohol-based after-shave lotions. Some are common drug-store products such as Aqua Velva after shave, while others are more boutique products like Pareidolia, with its fresh, modern scent, or Sin, a no-fragrance-added splash, which has an initial fresh alcohol- or vodka-like scent -- and both of these (and others) are available from Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements.

Like many, I think that alcohol-based after shaves may be a bit harsh right out of the bottle despite their sanitizing effect and bracing sting. Here's how I've turned these products into welcome daily after-shave options:

I ordered via eBay a couple of ounces of menthol crystals. Then I went to my local pharmacy and bought a bottle of generic witch hazel.

Then I took a re-purposed Greek yogurt container (#5 plastic, which is heat tolerant and safe for microwave-oven use), put a couple of menthol crystals in it with just a bit of witch hazel, and, using the kitchen microwave oven, carefully melted the menthol into the witch hazel.

I poured the mentholated witch hazel from the yogurt cup into a little bottle that I bought in the travel section of the personal-products department at my local Target store, and added plain, un-doctored witch hazel to fill the bottle about 80% full. I then completely filled the bottle full with the alcohol-based after-shave product of my choice.

The result is a diluted alcohol after shave that still has the same fragrance as the full-strength version, but is milder, more soothing, and has a nice menthol-cooling effect.

Try it, and let me know what you think.

Happy shaving, happy after-shave splashing, soothing!

I include this link, above, to the new Weishi adjustable DE razor because I think it's the perfect, mild adjustable for men that find other adjustable razors just a touch too aggressive at their mildest settings. I suggest you read my remarks about the razor in my articles that immediately precede this one before you purchase, or read my review under the name, DNH, in the Amazon reviews for this listing. This razor has become my daily driver, and I've found new enthusiam for my daily shave because of this instrument.

Razor Review: The Replacement Weishi Adjustable Arrived Yesterday

I had my first shave with this replacement Weishi adjustable razor this morning after giving it my usual, careful new-razor inspection. The following is the verbatim review that I posted to the amazon.com sales listing for this razor:

Finally, FINALLY an adjustable razor that adjusts mild enough for men with sensitive or easily-nipped skin, who shave every day. Due to its unique adjustment range, this razor can accommodate blades from the sharpest right out of the package to those with many shaves and are at the end of their useful life.  This is an adjustable razor with a shaving character that has long been called for. It is not without its quirks, however.

Likes:
+ The adjustment range is broad enough to get a very close shave, but also gets mild enough for those occasions when aggressive is not called for.
+ The blade mounts uniformly in the razor with even reveal and exposure
+ The blade exposure is negative -- meaning that the blade edge sits slightly below the shave plane formed by the safety bars and top cap, safely within the cove of those bars and top cap; it's a true safety razor
+ The razor can provide a close shave by making the razor adjustment setting more aggressive, or by adjusting to a less-aggressive setting and using more aggressive techniques such as razor buffing or J-hooking

The razor has its quirks:
- To open the butterfly doors wide enough to mount a blade without risk to its edges, the razor must be set to maximum aggression
- To close the butterfly doors once a blade has been inserted, the razor's aggression setting must be dialed down from the maximum setting; if this isn't done, one of the butterfly doors gets hung up on a non-edge portion of the blade, and the doors won't close completely!
- It doesn't have lather slots (a.k.a. gutter slots), but this does not affect the shave adversely. (Other much more expensive razors also lack this feature: notably the Merkur brand Progress and Futur models.) The lather and stubble removed from the face simply accumulates on the underside of the razor head and is easily washed away as is normally done. The razor does NOT clog as some might be tempted to claim.


I can confirm my observations because I returned the first Weishi adjustable thinking that the above-mentioned blade-loading quirks were a one-time quality-control failure. However, the second razor was EXACTLY the same. So I give this product four, not five, stars for its quirks. After all, the vintage Gillette adjustables were similar in design (although, unfortunately, more aggressive in overall shaving character) but did not have this razor's blade-insertion peculiarities.


That said, I accept the quirks because I think the quality of the shave-head design and the range of adjustment are unique among affordable adjustable double-edge (DE) razors. 

If you can live with its quirks (I can and will), I highly recommend this instrument. I have owned MANY DE razors, and have gone exclusively to adjustables for their flexibility in shaving character. I currently own a Parker Variant, a Ming Shi 2000S (designed after the Merkur Futur), a Gillette Slim, and now this Weishi. This new Weishi has replaced my Variant as my preferred, go-to daily shaver.

                     

'Nuff said.  Happy shaving!

New Razor, Fresh Enthusiasm

Despite the quirkiness of my particular Weishi adjustable razor (I hope its replacement isn't as quirky in its opening and closing requirements), I've found new enthusiasm for shaving with this adjustable razor that, finally, FINALLY, has an adjustable range that more closely meets my particular needs.

I had originally planned to return to my Parker Variant for today's shave. This would have allowed me to compare its shave to the Weishi adjustable. But I just couldn't. I couldn't resist another shave with this razor with a shave character that seemingly was designed with guys like me in mind, who need and appreciate razors with milder shave character.

This morning using a Dorco blade for its sixth shave, I took a with-grain first pass with the razor set to 4 (out of 7).

The second pass saw the razor set to 5 for a cross-grain pass.

The third pass strictly against the grain and the final clean-up strokes were done with the razor on 6 (of 7!!!).

I got a very close shave with minimal irritation and skin insult. I had a couple of very tiny pin-point weepers on my lower neck, which isn't bad for a close shave.

The mildness of this razor's adjustment range allows me to "sneak up" on a close, comfortable shave using its full range of adjustment capability. For very sharp blades, the lower end may be called for. Older blades nearing the end of their life cycle may allow for the most aggressive settings that this instrument can provide.

                     

I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's shave.

Happy shaving!

Update on Weishi Adjustable

It may help if you first take a look at my article from yesterday, which featured initial commentary on the new Weishi adjustable double-edge razor (DE).

I decided not to settle (if I don't have to) for the poor mechanical quality of the Weishi adjustable DE. Oh, I really like the way it shaves, but its mechanics of opening and closing the butterfly doors are just not acceptable (if I can do better with a replacement).

Hoping that I just received a poorly build version that slipped through Weishi's spotty quality control, I began the process of returning the instrument, and purchased a second, with the idea that it might operate better.

So we'll see. I'm still using the original one shipped, and will complete its return to the seller once the replacement arrives.

I'll keep you informed as to the outcome. Stay tuned!

Happy shaving, too!

Mild Adjustable Razor Options

I been keeping to myself lately, not writing in this blog, because I've been experimenting.

As you may know, I prefer razors on the milder side because of my skin's propensity to get easily nipped. I also prefer adjustable razors -- such as the Parker Variant, vintage Gillette adjustables, the Merkur Progress or Futur, and now the new Weishi adjustable -- for a couple of reasons:

• They allow me to adjust the aggressiveness of the razor as the blade evolves through its life cycle from the first shave to its last, which is usually somewhere between shaves 14 and 21
• They allow me to adjust mid shave to deal with more difficult areas of my beard including those that are more susceptible to wounds and those that require more aggression to shave closely

As I've written many times and in more than one venue (here and Sharpologist.com), unfortunately most adjustable razors don't dial down to be sufficiently mild for my face, when using a blade with few shaves on it. 

Underclocking My Gillette Slim

So once again I pulled out my closeted Gillette Slim for what I believe to be its final chance to be an option for me. In factory-stock configuration, it has consistently been too harsh and too aggressive for me. But here's why this instrument has gotten one final trial:

The Slim can be modified with the release of a catch and the turn of a dial. By using a firm, thin tool such as the point of a metal nail file, depressing the catch in the slot just above the Slim's adjustment ring, the adjustment ring disengages from the razor's adjustment mechanism. By keeping the catch depressed, the adjustment ring can be revolved 360 degrees, and when the catch is released, you have dialed in another adjustment range for the razor. When doing this simple modification, by rotating the adjustment ring in one direction, the razor becomes ultra aggressive at all settings. By rotating in the opposite direction, the razor becomes ultra mild. (For more detailed instructions and images, do an Internet search on something like Overclocking Gillette Slim.)

This modification to the Slim's shaving character to make it more aggressive (though I honestly don't know why anyone would need to do that) is known as overclocking (which I believe was originally a term referring to computer-chip use). By logical extension, some refer to the more-mild modification as underclocking (though no analagous term applies in the IT world).

So I underclocked my Slim and used it for a few shaves. Unfortunately its shave character became ridiculously mild -- so much so that I said, "f--- it," set it back to factory adjustment, and parked it back in bedroom closet with my other shaving gear that I don't use.

The New Weishi Adjustable Razor

Though the Slim modification wasn't successful for me, I got word from a well-known shaving celebrity that Weishi had come out with a one-piece (TTO) adjustable razor along the lines of the old Gillettes. So my wife kindly ordered me one as a gift, and I've been getting acquainted with this new instrument.

(The link, above, is provided for those who are early adopters or those who are merely curious about the new Weishi adjustable razor.)

Though the razor I received is not built with the precision of a Swiss watch in terms of its adjustment mechanism and butterfly-door works, it is symmetrical and parallel in the key aspects of its shaving geometry. I will be providing a detailed review in the future, but for now here are some preliminary observations:

The good:

• I find the adjustment range of this razor to be near ideal. It is very mild at one extreme and more than aggressive enough (for me) at the other.
• It provides for any shave closeness that I need using any blade in any aspect of its life cycle, while offering the safety of a true safety razor.
• Despite not having lather slots (a.k.a. gutter slots), it shaves like any other DE. Yep, the lather builds up on the underside of the razor head, but it doesn't clog.
• I has nice heft.
• The grippiness of the handle is great.

Not a Swiss watch:

• The butterfly doors only open wide enough when the adjustment ring is on 7 (max aggression).
• The butterfly doors hang sometimes on the non-edge of the blade, and need some fiddling to close on occasion (brute force is NOT called for!!). [CORRECTION: The doors don't hang on the blade. The razor setting must be reduced from max aggression to close the butterfly doors.]
• The jet-black coating is not quite as slippery against skin as, say, chrome plating, when doing final clean-up strokes without adding more lather, just water.

That said, guess what razor will be my daily driver for the foreseeable future. Yep, the Weishi Adjustable.

I had a great third shave this morning, capped by one of my favorite after-shave soothing products, Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements' Black Bot Star Jelly Aftershave. I love the classic scent, the slight menthol cooling, and the smooth, soothed feeling of my skin that it leaves.

Happy shaving!

See My Latest Article on Sharpologist.com -- August 3rd

I have another (brilliant) article scheduled to be published on Sharpologist.com on August 3rd.

Don't miss it!

Happy shaving (and reading)!

A Shim in My Snap-together Two-piece Razor

As promised yesterday, I shaved this morning with a reverse shim in my Ming Shi 2000S razor, a Chinese instrument based on the original Merkur Futur design.

Sold to me by Maggard Razors, the Ming Shi 2000S razor is based on the original
Merkur Futur design, but with some slight changes including added lather slots.

With my edge-less shim in place between the top cap and the shaving blade, I took a down-up shave followed by a third pass and some clean-up strokes.

My down-up passes were set on one, the razor's mildest setting. My third pass, as much as possible strictly against the grain, was set to two, and then additional, final under-jaw clean-up strokes on three.

The outcome was a very good shave (as expected). I did have two minor wounds due to careless cockpit error, not equipment failure.

So the bottom line on today's trial is this:

If you have a two-piece adjustable razor -- one whose design is based on either of Merkur's razors, the Progress or Futur --  and your adjustable is just too aggressive for you on its mildest setting, then a reverse shim may just be the solution to make your adjustable razor ideal.

Happy shaving!

Revisiting the Futur-design Razors Equipped with a Reverse Shim

I'm officially on the record as being a big fan of adjustable razors.

They offer the opportunity for a one-size-fits-all instrument that is good for any beard, any face, any blade, and any usable blade condition from new to thirty shaves.

The one fly in the ointment has been that most adjustables don't dial down mild enough for some users or some blades. However, for some two-piece adjustables such as the Parker Variant or the Merkur Progress, that problem has been solved with the idea of the reverse shim, which is an edge-less blade sandwiched between the top cap and the actual shaving blade.

Now that I employ the magic of the reverse shim, my Parker Variant is now a beloved go-to daily shaver -- ideal for any blade in any usable condition as well as any beard and face!!!

Reverse shims (or tape strips between top cap and blade) probably won't work for one-piece (that is, twist-to-open) razors such as the vintage Gillette adjustables. They certainly aren't a great option for my 1963 Gillette Slim.

The remaining question is will a reverse shim do the trick in two-piece razors with the snap-in top cap? This razor design was pioneered by the Merkur Futur, and, with the expiration of the Merkur patent, has since been adapted by Chinese razors such as the Q Shave or the Ming Shi 2000S.

Tomorrow's shave will be with the Ming Shi 2000S, employing a reverse shim, to evaluate the practicality of decreasing the minimum aggressiveness of a Futur-based razor design. (Photo courtesy of Maggard Razors, where I purchased my 2000S.)

I will test this tomorrow. I've already queued up my 2000S with a reverse shim and a blade, and will give it a go. Of course, I'll  share my thoughts in this blog afterward.

Stay tuned and happy (reverse) shimming!

Love the One You're With...

According to the '70s music group, Crosby, Stills and Nash, "If you can't be with the one you love, honey, love the one you're with."

This advice applies to double-edge razors (DEs) as well.

Many DE users spend much time, money and energy shopping, buying and trying DEs to find one that is just right for their face and beard. My recent successful experiments turning my Parker Variant into the one-size-fits-all razor that I've always desired, has got me thinking....

Many if not most two- or three-piece razors can be tuned, their aggressiveness adjusted, to be razors that almost anyone can love.

Now, of course, I maintain my stated preference for adjustable two-piece razors like the Variant for the following reasons:

• The infinite adjustability from mild to wild allows me to compensate for blade-sharpness degradation as it evolves through its life cycle.
• The adjustability allows me to increase the aggressiveness of the razor easily during the shave as I make final clean-up strokes to achieve my desired shave closeness.
• The two-piece design (as contrasted with the one-piece TTO adjustables) allows for razor aggressiveness tuning using tape or shims (as discussed in previous, recent articles in this blog).

But I started pondering potential improvements to the shave character of several non-adjustable razors that I've relegated to my bedroom-closet razor box. These razors include the Rimei RM2003 and my 1965 Gillette Travel Tech.

My '65 Travel Tech is just a touch too aggressive when paired with a sharp new blade.
It's a candidate for tape strips or a shim between the top cap and blade.

For me, these three-piece, non-adjustable razors are just a touch too aggressive to be all-purpose shavers -- and the Rimei is more aggressive than the Tech. So I'm going to experiment with a single shim between the top cap and the blade (a so-called reverse shim) to make their shave character a bit more tame.

This Rimei RM2003 is a touch more aggressive than the Gillette Tech.
At least a shim and perhaps a thin tape on the underside of the top cap,
between it and the blade, might do the trick to tame this cat to my satisfaction.

For those out there for whom these razors are too mild, they could try a shim (or two) between the blade and the baseplate, which would make the razors' shave character more aggressive.

As a reminder, a shim is made from an old DE blade that has had its edges trimmed off with scissors. 

An alternative to using a shim, which adds another piece of hardware to the razor assembly, is to add tape (one layer or more as needed) to the underside of the top cap or on top of the baseplate to either respectively decrease or increase the aggressiveness of the razor. Because the tape is in the middle of the top-cap-and-baseplate "sandwich", it tends to become a semi-permanent part of the razor -- almost never needing replacement.

By tuning or de-tuning the aggressiveness of your razor to meet your needs, you can avoid having to find one you (might) love right out of the box, and, instead, love the one you're with.

Happy shaving!

A Confirmation that the Reverse-Shimmed Variant is a Great Move

My first shave with my reverse-shimmed Parker Variant was described in my previous posting. And a great shave it was!

This Parker Variant is now the only DE razor that I use!

But one great shave doesn't tell the whole story any more than a good opening paragraph portends a gripping novel.

The real tests come when using various blades that are known for their out-of-the-wrapper sharpness. This includes some of those in my large-inventory cache such as Astra Superior Platinum, Personna (blue as well as red) and Shark.

So this morning I opened a fresh Astra blade and put that into my Variant -- along with the reverse shim inserted between the top cap and the cutting blade.

Bottom line: another great shave!

Today's shave was the first of what I believe will be many shaves that confirm the potential of the Parker Variant to be the ideal razor for every DE user. For most it is ideal right out of the box. For a minority of users, who need a razor with a less-aggressive shave character, all that is needed is some strips of tape applied to the underside of the top cap, or a reverse-shim inserted between the top cap and the blade.

As a result of these trial shaves, I have further simplified my at-hand inventory of razors. There are now only two:

• I have my Parker PTB barber's straight razor for various hair trimming such as the back of my neck.
• My Parker Variant is now the only DE razor that I keep at hand. (The rest are in my razor box in a bedroom closet.) The Variant now (with the added reverse shim) has the aggressiveness range to address all my shaving needs including early shaves with very sharp blades.

Further confirmation of the adjustment range of my Variant with come with first-blade-use shaves with Personnas (both red and blue) and Sharks. I can hardly wait!

Happy shaving!

The Parker Variant: Making it the Best Razor for ALL Users!!!!

As you may know from reading my many articles, for a long time I've thought that the Parker Variant adjustable razor is the best affordable adjustable double-edge razor (DE) razor available. In fact, it just may be a prime candidate for the best DE razor, with no qualifiers. Simply the best.

Parker Variant with the charcoal handle.

But there was (past tense) just one fly in the ointment. For those users with skin that is extremely susceptible to tiny nicks or for some who wanted to use the sharpest blades (Feather brand), at its mildest setting, the Variant was perhaps just not quite mild enough.

Parker Variant with the satin-chrome handle.

But I found the simple solution, which I used this morning. As a matter of fact I'm still basking in the quiet satisfaction of a truly close and comfortable shave -- one of my best ever.

What has taken the Variant from a very good razor to the best is the addition of a shim -- a reverse shim to be more specific.

A reverse shim is an edge-less blade inserted between the top cap and the blade that actually does the shaving.

A reverse shim makes a DE razor less aggressive. A normal shim (referred to simply as a shim, with no preceding modifier) is placed between the blade and the baseplate, and makes a DE razor more aggressive.

The shim is made by taking an old DE blade and trimming off just the cutting edges with a pair of scissors.

Unlike a DE blade used for cutting whiskers, a shim doesn't wear out and can be used indefinitely.

If you're considering a new DE razor -- and perhaps the only razor you'll ever need -- consider adding the Parker Variant to your shave den. Click on the graphic above to shop for your Variant.

Happy ideal shaving!

Reducing the Aggressiveness of Adjustable DE Razors

[UPDATE: If this article is relevant to your interests, be sure to read the comments section at the very bottom. Some additional, useful information is provided there in a short comment conversation between an informed reader and the author.]

I am on record saying several things about the Parker Variant adjustable razor:

• Its shaving geometry makes for a non-irritating shave.
• It may be the best affordable adjustable razor design on the market.
• It adjusts to settings sufficiently aggressive to satisfy most users who prefer (or for some reasons need) a very aggressive razor.
• Its adjustment range is adequate to meet the needs of most (but not all) users.
• Like every adjustable DE of which I'm aware, it doesn't adjust to a mild enough setting for users who prefer or need very mild razors  -- like me.

Long ago, I stopped using my Variant for the first four to six shaves with most new blades. Instead I used milder razors that were less likely to nip my wound-prone skin, which is NOT in and of itself baby smooth. Though you can't tell by looking, my skin is rather micro rough, which leaves it prone to nicks/weepers whenever I shave certain areas to my desired level of closeness.

I found a simple solution to the not-mild-enough problem with the Parker Variant (and likely other adjustables such as the Merkur Progress as well as the Merkur Futur and other razors based on the Futur design -- even the Gillette adjustables!).

The solution is to elevate the shave plane slightly, thus lowering the blade edge in relation to the shave plane. This is done easily and inexpensively (and without risking any harm to the razor) with a few strips of electrical tape.

With a couple of strips of electrical tape, the shave plane of the razor can be tweaked to shave just a bit milder.

What the added tape does is make the top cap just a tad thicker near the blade. This raises the top cap's contact point with the skin. This raised contact point tips the shave plane slightly more away from the blade edge, which makes the blade exposure slightly negative -- meaning that the edge is now slightly below the shave plane, rather that directly on it.

Without the tape on the top cap and the razor at its mildest setting, the blade exposure is fairly neutral, with the edge pretty much at the shave plane. This can be too aggressive for a minority of users.

With just a single layer of electrical tape and the razor set to its mildest setting, the shave plane rises enough that the edge is now clearly underneath it. This is a negative-blade-exposure configuration, and makes the razor much safer, more user friendly for those with easily-nicked skin.

Happy shaving!

Hump Day Revelations

Grandad's Shave Soap

I have a fairly large batch of Grandad's Shave Soap, my personal recipe for an all-natural, plant-based, unscented shave soap for those who may be sensitive to fragrance and other additives.

At one time I did offer samples for a modest price, and though a few took me up on the sample offer -- and even a few wanted to order a puck, it was a commercial failure.

Yet recently I've been shaving with Grandad's Soap, and I find it to be an excellent option. It makes rich lather that lubricates well.

The reasons for it's commercial failure include the following:

• No fragrance
• Samples were too small and awkwardly packaged
• Normal-sized quantities were not made available (and probably would have been priced too low!)

Ah well, live and learn. 

Gillette Slim

I had to change razors in the middle of this morning's shave. After with-grain and then cross-grain passes (and using a light touch, with the razor on its mildest setting), I removed the blade from my Gillette Slim and put it into my Parker Variant, which was also set on its mildest adjustment.

Making my final pass against grain with the Variant was a much more comfortable experience. It has motivated me to remove the Slim once again from my small selection of at-hand razors.

I'm done with the Slim. If it works for you, more power to you. It's just not my cup of tea.

Happy shaving!