My routine works for me though perhaps not everyone. Here is pretty much my current process for getting my best shave, which is a compromise between comfort (including minimizing minor wounds) and closeness:
- Razor: post-WWII Tech or facsimile
- Coated blade (but not Derby Extra, unless with first-use corking and pre-shave stropping)
- Cool water splash and rub to wet beard
- Wet outside of Omega Syntex brush knot (I have come to prefer synthetic-bristled brushes because they don't require or benefit from pre-shave soaking; they hold water by water tension, so one can simply drizzle cool water into the inverted brush for face lathering)
- Repeat water splash and rub, which also applies the soap residue in my palm from the wetting of the outside of the brush
- Apply shave stick to wet beard (I prefer Arko or my own Grandad's formula for the safest shave)
- Run a bit of water directly into the brush knot
- Face lather
- Add more water directly into the brush knot, continue lathering, and repeat adding water as necessary to get a wet, creamy lather
- First pass generally with grain (strokes are generally down over most of my beard, and up on the lower half of my neck)
- Cool water rinse
- Apply more lather from that remaining on the brush
- Second pass cross grain with some additional fussing on and under jawline using lather from the underside of the razor
Done on the average day
- If going for the gold of an exceptionally-close shave: cool water rinse, and final application of lather from brush
- Third pass against grain with additional touch-up strokes as desired using extra water and lather from underside of razor head
- Cool water rinse and post-shave treatments as necessary and desired such as alum block, styptic pencil, witch hazel, and other lotions and balms
Happy routine shaving!
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